19TH CENTURY BROOCHES
Probably the most creative period in jewelry is the 19th century. This era was one of prosperity, economic growth and confidence with which many luxury items take center stage. This century is memorable for the rings and tiaras of diamonds and for the so-called nineteenth century brooches.
19th century brooches: eclecticism of the past
The nineteenth century was a period of great industrial and social changes. Interestingly, the jewels were characterized by a stylistic eclecticism inspired by Gothic, realism and baroque. The brilliants were the favorite stone of the jewelers who began to set it in open frames. Tiffany was the forerunner of this type of mount.
The sentimental and commemorative jewels were also protagonists. The nineteenth century brooches of cameos are popular, the medallions with strands of hair of the beloved and the initials. Velvet ribbons with brooches to decorate the wrists or neck are also very fashionable.
From the 1930s, we found many brooches with organic motifs, ears of wheat, leaves, animals, fantastic creatures, angels, and hearts. Also popular were those inspired by the archaeological remains found in Etruscan tombs in Rome, Pompeii and Herculaneum. Another trend is enameling, with techniques such as champlevé or plique-à-jour. In the champlevé a metal plate is hollowed out on which the enamel is placed; while in the plique-à-jour technique, the enamel is applied in hollow spaces, whereby the light can pass through the transparent or translucent enamel.
Jewelry, 19th century brooches: reflection of society
The economic growth and the opening to the outside mark the tendencies of the jewels. The prosperity and the confidence of the society favor the proliferation of pieces made with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, opals and turquoises. The nineteenth-century star brooches became very fashionable, with those made with brilliants combined with yellow gold being the preferred ones.
From the second half of the nineteenth century, the Egyptian Renaissance style, Chinese, Japanese and Hindu influences, were also highly appreciated.
To finish, we can not miss the Art Nouveau jewelery of the 1890s. Nature became symbols of life, eternity, sexuality, birth and death.